How To Repair Rusty Outer Wheel Housing On Rear Quarter

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1. Hi guys, I am looking for a little help. I recently installed a QA1 suspension on all four corners of my 1970 Duster 340. I am looking to take her to both track and autocross events. I also upgraded to the 5X4.5 bolt pattern all around. I am looking at 18x10 inch rims currently. Does anyone have any guidance on backspacing and offset? I saw two articles about Dusters doing the same thing running 18x10 and one was using a 25mm "backspacing", I believe they meant offset. one was running 315/30R18 all around and the other was running 275/35/18. Any guidance would be greatly appreciated.

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   autoxcuda Well-Known Member

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   25 mm backspace doesn't sound right. Do you mean positive or negated offset rim offset?

   are the rear spring moved in on that?

   If so, how much: offset shackle and spring eye... or relocated to frame rails?

4. 

   A56 MoPar Affliction

   It's a copy & paste from the article

5. 

   A56 MoPar Affliction

   Home » Car Reviews » Price-Buster Duster: Keeping It Simple With Leftover Parts

   Price-Buster Duster: Keeping It Simple With Leftover Parts

6. Yes, that is one of the articles I saw. The 25mm reference is from that article. Doing a little more research, I believe the other article was on Wracks71 Duster. I am running the QA1 6 link setup out the back; so no leaf springs to reference. The bars do utilize the stock shackle holes.

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   autoxcuda Well-Known Member

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   ok I think I found the specs. It's the only specs I can find for "American Muscle Bullitt Anthracite" wheels in 18x10 cast wheel:

   ...Never trust a magazine article

   its 24mm positive offset which I double checked since it didn't specifically say.

   

   

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   72bluNblu FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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   Ok, so there's a few things going on here. First off, I do believe that he's running 18x10 with a +25 or +24mm offset with 315/30/18's. But there's some factors that play into this as to why this works on his car, where I would tell you that a 275/35/18 is about as wide as you want to go on a Duster if you don't want to cut stuff or move the springs.

   First off, his car is cut. That makes a big difference. If you don't want to cut anything, you're much more limited. If you're willing to cut, roll, and "push" some sheet metal around you can add a TON of space, especially on a Duster. Second, it says right in the article "minimal rubbing". How "minimal" that is of course it up for interpretation. If you're willing to rub, you can add 10mm to the tire width easily compared to what won't rub at all. So, if 275/35/18 fits without rubbing, figure you can go at least 285 with truly minimal rubbing. I suspect his car rubs more than what I would consider "minimal", but that's just my opinion. Track car vs street car makes a huge difference too. What doesn't rub on the track might rub on the street, you tend to see a lot more stuff that would cause issues on the street. And finally in the general category- a 315/30/18 is supposed to be on a 10.5 wide wheel, minimum. Which means those tires are squeezed onto those rims a little, so, they're not as wide as the factory specs would suggest. He's probably losing a 1/2" of width to the smaller rims.

   In the back-
   Rear quarters have had a TON of work done to them. It does appear that his shackles are in the stock location, no offset or relocation. It's hard to tell, there are no pictures of the full shackles so it is possible there's a 1/2" offset in there. Definitely no 3" relocation. But, he totally tubbed the rear of the car. That adds over an inch to the outside compared to a stock Duster. It also adds to the inside clearance, even with the stock spring locations. You can see his tubs here-
   

   You can also see his tire clearance to the springs. This is REALLY tight for the street.
   

   In the front-

   Two really big things to consider for the front. First off, it says he's using the original spindles with a Wilwood conversion. That means he's using SBP spindles, and the newer dynalite conversion doesn't increase the track width. So right off the back I would say that if you're running BBP disk spindles you'd need to at +10mm to the offset. That puts you at +35mm, which is what I'm running on my 18x9's with 275/35/18's. So that's not a mystery, the SBP vs BBP spindles change the front track width substantially. The second thing you can see here...
   

   Look at how much negative camber is on those wheels!!! That has to be at least -2°, if not -3°. I run my car at -1.1°, which is visible, but not anything like this. That changes the fender clearance a lot. The other thing is that he cut his fenders, so, another 1/2" of clearance there compared to stock.

   That's the problem with pulling specs from other people's cars, you have to know everything they did to use those specs. You have to know what spindles, brakes, and axles are being used. In this case, if you're using BBP spindles and 73+ disk brakes, your 18x10's should be closer to +35mm of offset. Even with that, I would still recommend 275/35/18's unless you want to really start cutting, rolling and pushing the fenders. If you do all of that I still wouldn't recommend the 315/30/18's, they're supposed to be on 18x10.5's or better. 295/35/18's would be a much better bet, but they're still gonna take a bunch of work for a street car. In the back, 18x10's will fit with the stock spring locations and no cutting. But not with 315/30/18's. I was running 295/35/18's on my Duster with a 1/2" spring offset and another 1/2" trimmed off the quarter lip, and those were tight. I've since done a "reverse mini tub", which makes the outer tub flush with the quarter lip. Doing that I can see how you might be able to fit 315's. But without it, nope. Backspace will depend on your axle housing, axles and brakes. The 6-link will buy you a little space to the axles because of the width of the links vs springs, but you're still using the stock perches. So probably similar clearance to a 1/2" spring offset like I have.

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   autoxcuda Well-Known Member

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   I agree. It's very focused on autocross with not a lot of compromise.

   There's some cutting, bending, shaping going on. It wouldn't surprise me if the double wall to the outer wheelhouse has a section removed entirely

   ... all that said... man I want to run 315's square on my cuda.

   I just wuss out since it's a numbers matching 340 car. I'm about to overcome that. It's just a column auto notchback that's bottom of the 340 bucket.

   I've got fenders to cut for the front. Just not sure I can do 315 with only 1/2" offset spring. Someone help talk me into this.

10. So it Steve. Don't be a triangle. You can take it up a notch if ya mini tub. ;)

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    autoxcuda Well-Known Member

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    Another problem with mini tub and full spring relocation is exhaust and gas tank. No room left for tailpipes to make it to the tips.

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    A56 MoPar Affliction

    Just me, but cutting that car up just would be regrettable later. Find something else to cut up.

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    72bluNblu FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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    autoxcuda Well-Known Member

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    Yes. That outside ledge is a killer. Saw that years ago when I lipped the rear openings.

    

    

    

    

15. Thanks for all the info guys. I am more focused on the rim size and knew 315 was way more than I need or wanted. Just seems that article drove the thread that way. I tried a 17X10 rim with 275/40 my buddy had laying around. The inside of the rim rubbed the tinniest bit on the top of the upper control arm. I feel I need to go up to a 18 to make sure it doesn't rub on the upper arm. The rim we tried had 15mm offset and we put a half inch spacer up front. I believe that puts us at a 24 or 25mm offset. The rims we tried fit in the back with room to spare. Up front it looks like it should clear with some minal rolling of the upper fender lip. I am just trying to figure out all I can before ordering a combo that doesn't fit. I know the safe bet is just to get a staggered set and drop the front to 18x9. However, for track and autocross I would ideally want it the same all around.

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    autoxcuda Well-Known Member

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    what upper control arms do you have when you tested the 17x10? Some are bad for clearance.

    what was the backspacing and or offset of that 17x10? Might be more than you need.

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    72bluNblu FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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    Your math is incorrect. If it had a +15mm offset and you added a 1/2" spacer (13mm) then you ended up with a +2mm offset. Which would in no way clear the fender at any decent ride height for AutoX.

    18's are necessary if you want to run much more than a 8" wide wheel up front. With a 17" rim you typically start hitting the outer tie rod end at about 5.7" of backspace on most rim designs. To get a 9" wide wheel or wider you need about 6" of backspace to keep it inside the fender, which means you need an 18" wheel. With an 18" wheel the outer tie rod fits inside the lip of the rim.

    If you want to run "square", your best bet with a Duster is 18x9.5's with a 68-70 B body 8 3/4 out back. You run 18x9.5's with about 35mm of offset, and 275/35/18's all the way around. That would require pretty much no bodywork and would clear on the street. With a BBP A-body 8/3 the rear will need more like +8mm of offset.

18. If you want to run "square", your best bet with a Duster is 18x9.5's with a 68-70 B body 8 3/4 out back. You run 18x9.5's with about 35mm of offset, and 275/35/18's all the way around. That would require pretty much no bodywork and would clear on the street. With a BBP A-body 8/3 the rear will need more like +8mm of offset.[/QUOTE]

    That's awesome that's exactly the kind of information I was looking for. I will take your advice and go with 18x9.5 over 10. Can you just clarify what offsets i should order for the front and back to keep it the same all around. The car is setup with its original Abody 8 3/4 that i changed the axles to the BBP. I get a let lost when it comes from 35mm to 8+

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    72bluNblu FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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    The "problem" with A-bodies is that the track width is not the same front and rear. That's especially true with 73+ disks up front and an 8 3/4 out back. You can't really run square and rotate your tires with that combination, because the wheel offset needs to be different from front to rear.

    In the front, with a 73+ BBP disk brake set up, an 18x9.5 with a +30 to +35mm offset will work. That's the same as saying an 18x9.5" with 6.4" to 6.6" of backspace.

    In the rear, the 8 3/4 is too narrow for that much backspace with the stock spring locations. Typically with an 8 3/4 and BBP axles you'll only have about 6" from the wheel mounting surface back to the spring. With the 6 link you'll have a little more room, but still I don't think you'll be able to use much more than 5.5" of backspace, which is only a +13mm offset on an 18x9.5".

    That's why a 68-70 B body rear housing comes in handy, because it makes the offset (or backspace, whichever you prefer to use) the same for the front and rear. So you can actually run the same wheels and tires in the front and back and rotate your wheels.

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How To Repair Rusty Outer Wheel Housing On Rear Quarter

Source: https://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/threads/autocross-track-duster-wheel-help.488915/

Posted by: hallapers1957.blogspot.com

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